Sunday, April 22, 2007

once upon a time there was a Dutch girl...

Today is Sunday which means it's time to make the difficult decision about what to do for fun in Madurai. It's really a torturous decision because there are so many choices. Well, actually there are two choices: temple or cinema. Though I did see in the newspaper today that the "Russian circus" has come to town and we are so starved for entertainment here I think I might just go. In any event, today I opted for the cinema and I brought Tamilarasi and her 14 year old son along. Turns out we really should have opted for praying to god instead. I have to say that today was simply one of the most uncomfortable and unpleasant movie-going experiences I have ever had. If it hadn't been for the A/C, the main reason I went in the first place, then it would be the worst movie experience ever. In fact, the A/C is the only thing that kept me there. Let me explain.

Since there weren't any good Tamil movies out right now, today we had to opt for an American movie, dubbed in Tamil. The movie "300" is running here, and I had read somewhere that it was pretty good. Boy, was I wrong. I mean, maybe it's okay in an American theatre, in English, but it simply does NOT translate in Madurai, and I'm not just talking about the language. First off, before we went, Tamilarasi asked her husband and sons if "ladies" could go to this movie. I was like, well it's an American movie and I'm an American lady so I'm going. When we stepped into the movie theatre I got why she had a doubt. It was pretty much like stepping into a den of hungry wolves. Though I haven't been into a porn theatre, I'm guessing that the atmosphere was identical. It was packed full of about 200 whistling and howling men who turned to stare at me pretty good when I got in there, under the dim glow of blue lights. Appropriate because they call porn films here "blue films". We were the only two females in there at first and I considered leaving. Fortunately three other women did come in, but I think they were considered to be of low moral standing. See how difficult it is to watch a freaking American movie here? Women just do not go because it is a major hassle. When the men, young and old, weren't whistling, howling or yelling, they were talking at top volume on their cell phones to God knows who. At one point people starting meowing and making cat noises throughout the theatre. I have no idea why. Overall, a wonderful environment to watch a movie.

Apparently American movie equals porn movie here, and they were ready for some skin. I was thinking, what exactly are they going to see in this "300" movie? Keep in mind, folks, that some of the scenes we watch in American movies are super scandalous here, and I felt really uncomfortable during kissing scenes, etc. People were whistling and shouting at top volume the whole time, especially when there was any chance of seeing some skin. The male audience especially enjoyed the rape scene, as per usual. This "300" film is a "historical" film about the Spartans, and their clothing was appropriately spartan to say the least. The women wore togas/glorified rags pretty much falling off their bodies. In one scene this absolutely hideous hunchback monster man steps into a brothel where women with nothing but coins covering their nipples start grinding all over him. In another scene a very attractive woman allows herself to be licked on the face by a monsterous beast of a man. Someone asked me if American women are like this, not caring if a man is hideous and just grinding on him and letting him lick them. Also, do American women walk around with coins covering their nipples? These scenes are incredibly embarassing because the audience members equate whatever white people are doing on screen with white people in "real" life. Never mind that this movie is supposed to take place thousands of years ago or whatever. People see the white folks running around on screen with spears wearing rags and coins, and they think we are doing this today itself. But let's also remember that 99% of Americans have concluded from watching "Indiana Jones" that Indians regularly eat monkey brains as part of a healthy diet.

Basically "300" totally sucked. They dubbed it completely in literary Tamil so I understood hardly anything. The film was entirely in this horribly depressing sepia tone which I suppose the director thought would lend some feeling of historical authenticity. How many more of these bullshit ancient battle movies are going to come down the pike? There was "Troy" which was TERRIBLE and some other movie pretty much exactly like it. Oh, I think it was "Alexander." "300" is in the same vein, and it totally lifted scenes straight from "Gladiator". "Troy" and "Alexander" both ran here and they were simply terrible. I'm sick of these stupid battle stories where the women are pretty much only there to get raped or assaulted and otherwise stay in the background. Furthermore, how many more movies do we need with people chopping people to bits with swords and spears for 2 hours? So they did some special effects with the blood in this movie. Disgusting and pointless, if you ask me.

Needless to say this is the last time I am going to watch an American movie in Madurai. Except maybe Spiderman. That I really want to see, but not if there is any nudity. If there is any nudity they need to just go ahead and put it in a porn theatre here and be done with it. People cannot handle it otherwise.

After the movie I headed back to Tamilarasi's neighborhood. Today I've been hearing all about the "Dutch girl" who was in that neighborhood a few months ago. People cannot stop talking about her, and of course because I am also white there are invariably going to be comparisons drawn between us. I really started to feel sorry for this Dutch girl, because apparently she was the first white person they'd seen in that neighborhood and from what I heard packs of people surrounded her everywhere she went. I heard that she wore pants that exposed her ankles (SCANDAL!) as well as a tank top. She rode around on a bike with an UNMARRIED MAN. This seemed to be the biggest mistake she made, bigger than walking around half naked.
Apparently this man told her her clothes weren't acceptable so she started wearing a sari. But this didn't make up for the fact that she was going around with this guy who was 30 years old and apparently already a spinster. Oh yes, and she smoked cigarettes outside as well. Basically this Dutch girl was a walking disaster. And today everyone was looking to me for comparisons. I seemed to pass muster, however, because I was covered up. Furthermore I spoke Tamil which she did not. As per usual my hair and skin and every square inch of my body was inspected. Every way that I differed from the Tamil standard was pointed out and commented upon. Keep in mind that freckles and moles do not readily appear on dark skin, and on fair skin these items become objects of intense curiosity and indeed concern, as they appear to suggest some sort of disease or insect attack. Lack of gold jewelry was addressed; earrings were inspected and nose ring was duly noted. Hair color was observed; it was noted that some foreigners, while all looking exactly alike in the face, appear to, on occasion, have differently colored hair.

Overall it was a good day. I really liked that neighborhood and think I will go back there as often as I can. It is very calm and quiet during those rare moments when my mere presence does not encite chaos.


Tamilarasi and sons

Further evidence that cooking in India should be left in the hands of trained professionals.

2 comments:

Christine said...

Well.. let it be known that I saw 300 with three evangelical Christian men during a feminist conference about pornography and the objectification of women in media.

Probably not nearly as dehumanizing, but perhaps as awkward. And yes, that movie was disgusting.

Melanie said...

Christine,
please tell me more about watching this with evangelicals! I can imagine that that was pretty awkward. if you get a chance, please email me and tell me more about this conference and what people were saying about the movie.
thanks!