BANDH !

The funny thing about Tamil newspapers here, especially the Dinamalar, to which I subscribe, is that almost every single day there is a huge one word headline on the front, screaming something or another. Favorites seem to be "CLASH!" "DESTRUCTION!" "ANGER!" or some variation of these words. Yesterday the state government called a bandh (strike) across Tamil Nadu and this was headline news. The bandh was called because the Supreme Court refused to rule in favor of reservations (affirmative action, in this case specifically within educational institutions) for the OBCs (Other Backward Classes, as they are known here). OBCs represent underprivileged groups that are not under the umbrella of the so-called STs and SCs (Scheduled Tribes and Scheduled Castes, groups which are listed in the Constitution as being entitled to reservations of numerous sorts, especially government jobs, spots in educational institutions, etc.)

Because of the bandh, all businesses (other than ones deemed essential) were to remain closed from 6am to 6pm on March 31st. Further, flights were grounded and trains and buses remained at a standstill. At first I was irritated, because I couldn't go anywhere and was pretty much locked up at home all day long. But then I got a grip on myself and realized my selfishness. The point of this strike is to support the OBCs and here I am irritated that I cannot use the internet for one day? Sadly, many members of the privileged sections of society were celebrating the court's verdict, which is always disturbing to see. Students at the premiere educational institutions were particularly gleeful. Meanwhile, the cynical media couldn't help but point out that the OBCs have remained silent. After all, if the OBCs aren't demanding reservations then they mustn't need them! That's the (il)logic, and you can see the problems with it.

I have to say that I was very impressed with the bandh. Unlike in the US, more often than not, the public at large is India is actively involved in issues. People across the state of TN banded together and struck in favor of OBCs yesterday. In the US, can you imagine a statewide strike over any social issue? Forget it. People are too passive and resigned. Every day in the media you see groups mobilized all over India, standing up to issues such as corporations taking advantage of the people, police atrocities, government malfeasance, lack of drinking water, global warming, you name it. Hell, women travel by lorry from the villages and stage sit-ins in Madurai because they want the free color televisions the goverment has promised. We're lucky in the US if we're able to get people off of their asses to protest an illegal war that's been dragging on for 4 years.

Because of the bandh I wasn't able to do much yesterday except sit in my house sweating and reading, mostly sweating. But Friday, on the other hand, was much more interesting. Tamilarasi called and wanted to go to this Mariamman temple that an astrologer had encouraged her to go to for solutions to some family problems. I'd never been to this place before. We went by auto, but were unable to go by the main road to the temple because it was blocked. We ended up going down this dark and smoky back way. Turns out that the smoky back way was through the cremation grounds which I had never seen in their active state. Bodies were burning all around and it didn't smell so nice. Women aren't supposed to go to cremations, so there were only men there and curiously enough, dozens of goats. Some men were shaving their heads.

We arrived at the small temple and, not surprisingly, my presence incited complete chaos. It somewhat died down in time for me to see a rooster get its head chopped off at the entrance of the temple. A family was there seeking some solutions to a problem and they offered a rooster to Karappusamy. The temple was packed and there were lots of people there suffering from evil eye problems and also ghost possessions. The priest divined the problem by placing a burning camphor tablet into the sanctified water and watching its movements. Then the afflicted individual was made to get down on his/her knees, facing Karappusamy and praying. The priest then lit a small piece of sanctified cloth on fire and held it about 2 inches away from the individual's face. He says some mantras and then takes some sanctified coconut water and suddenly splashes in onto the flame, and the person's face, making the drishti go out the back door of the temple. Individuals are made to vacate the doorway for this purpose, lest they fall pray to the dispelled drishti. The priest then drops another flaming camphor tablet into the water to assess the situation once more. He then prescribes actions for the family to remedy the situation. Often families were taken outside for a private consultation. One girl with the IV needle still in her hand came in and the pujari told her family that she was possessed not by one ghost, but two. It was interesting to note that the family didn't seem to be aghast or really the least bit perturbed by this. It was simply a fact that two ghosts had possessed her and the pujari had a remedy. Simple as that.

The father of the girl asked my name. In the hubbub and commotion he misheard me and thought my name was "tender coconut water" which was pretty freaking hilarious. We had a good laugh over that one. His wife asked if I was married. This was the first question out of her mouth. No surprise there. There was all kinds of interesting stuff that happened when I got home. In particular I came to learn that I had been robbed of Rs. 100. I ended up getting it back, but it was a really strange situation! After this strange experience I went up on the roof for some cool air and when I came down there were 3 youths of about 17-18 years old just standing on my front porch like a bunch of dummies, waiting for me. It was 9:30 at night and I was more than a little miffed to see them squatting there, stalking me. I'd never seen them before, but apparently they had heard that a white girl was living there. They wanted to question me about how far away the United States is. Right now it's feeling farther away than ever.

Today I was instructed to keep to myself in the neighborhood and to only associate with "high society people" in other sections of town. My caretakers have said that they will vet individuals from my own neighborhood for me to associate with. Right now I think I will take their advice considering that two of the individuals I have made acquaintance with so far have turned out to be a prostitute and a "man of very bad character" (Read: rapist?). Further, I've been informed not to go back to the Mariamman temple because the priest will work black magic on me and not to take tea or any food from individuals in the neighborhood because they will put magic potion in it and try to bewitch money out of me. It's going to be an interesting year in Meenambalpuram!