The past few days have been somewhat interesting, and if nothing else they have given me a nice glimpse into the family politics which are going to saturate various realms of my Madurai existence over the next year. Things are never simple when families are involved, and this is the same the world over, seems to me. I've been fretting quite a bit over this the past few days, because of late, individuals have been using me to make one another jealous. This simply isn't going to be tenable as one of them is currently in my employ and the other will be in my employ shortly, as a research assistant. This is a very uncomfortable situation for me. I know they aren't really doing it consciously, but I'm being manipulated. I really want everyone to be happy, which is what is causing me to fret. But today I realized that I am really going to have to take charge of the situation and do what it is that I want to do, without worrying about dividing my physical body and my attentions 50/50, which as we know isn't possible.
A few days ago, Chellapandi's husband was kind enough to paint a face on my drishti pumpkin. Chellapandi, apparently concerned that I did not find the face aesthetically pleasing, reminded me that for it to be effective against the evil eye it has to be "ugly". It also needs to have a face on both sides in order to deal with folks coming from both directions. I am very satisfied with the result, though I do think it could be more ominous, perhaps with the addition of some fangs.
Yesterday Tamilarasi and I took a bus ride out to Madapuram, about one hour away, to visit the very popular Kali temple there. You would have to see photos to do it justice, but I was worried that taking them inside might be disrespectful so I'll have to wait until next time to ask permission. We are going to go one Friday when it is packed. Tuesdays are also a very busy day. Yesterday a young woman was rolling her body on the ground around the temple premises three times as part of a vow for good health. In front of the Kali shrine, there are some cutting tools and an anvil on which people put coins and cut them in half, as a sort of magic spell against their enemies. As this has something to do with mitigating envy, it might be interesting for my research and I plan to explore this further.
In other news, there is still a gaping hole where a window should be in the bathroom. I am also still sweating bullets as there is no fan in the main room. I was assured that these two items would be completed yesterday, so I'm fairly certain that by the end of the month we should see a crew completing the tasks. Also a phone line was due to be installed yesterday and I have similar expectations with regard to this. Other things are much easier. The thing which has simply made my WEEK, has been the fact that I can now have The Hindu (a great English newspaper) and Dinamalar (a good Tamil paper) delivered to my doorstep each morning. Sounds like a small thing but it's a major pleasure and there were no coordination problems involved. Turns out my neighbor's son across the street is raising money for college by delivering papers and it took only a 10 second conversation to arrange this "subscription." Excellent!
A couple more anecdotes: Turns out that the main reason why Chellapandi was walking me to the bus stop all last week was not so much so I could get used to the neighborhood, but so that others in the area could come to know who I belong to. She and her mother-in-law had assured me that I have nothing to worry because everyone is afraid of the "postman's house" -- the house in which I am residing. This is apparently because they are afraid of Chellapandi's husband who apparently will "fight" if he needs to. I'm not sure what he has done to instill fear in the vicinity, but I am feeling sort of good about this considering that there are frequently drunk men stumbling out of the bar across the street.
A few days ago, Chellapandi's husband was kind enough to paint a face on my drishti pumpkin. Chellapandi, apparently concerned that I did not find the face aesthetically pleasing, reminded me that for it to be effective against the evil eye it has to be "ugly". It also needs to have a face on both sides in order to deal with folks coming from both directions. I am very satisfied with the result, though I do think it could be more ominous, perhaps with the addition of some fangs.
Yesterday Tamilarasi and I took a bus ride out to Madapuram, about one hour away, to visit the very popular Kali temple there. You would have to see photos to do it justice, but I was worried that taking them inside might be disrespectful so I'll have to wait until next time to ask permission. We are going to go one Friday when it is packed. Tuesdays are also a very busy day. Yesterday a young woman was rolling her body on the ground around the temple premises three times as part of a vow for good health. In front of the Kali shrine, there are some cutting tools and an anvil on which people put coins and cut them in half, as a sort of magic spell against their enemies. As this has something to do with mitigating envy, it might be interesting for my research and I plan to explore this further.
In other news, there is still a gaping hole where a window should be in the bathroom. I am also still sweating bullets as there is no fan in the main room. I was assured that these two items would be completed yesterday, so I'm fairly certain that by the end of the month we should see a crew completing the tasks. Also a phone line was due to be installed yesterday and I have similar expectations with regard to this. Other things are much easier. The thing which has simply made my WEEK, has been the fact that I can now have The Hindu (a great English newspaper) and Dinamalar (a good Tamil paper) delivered to my doorstep each morning. Sounds like a small thing but it's a major pleasure and there were no coordination problems involved. Turns out my neighbor's son across the street is raising money for college by delivering papers and it took only a 10 second conversation to arrange this "subscription." Excellent!
A couple more anecdotes: Turns out that the main reason why Chellapandi was walking me to the bus stop all last week was not so much so I could get used to the neighborhood, but so that others in the area could come to know who I belong to. She and her mother-in-law had assured me that I have nothing to worry because everyone is afraid of the "postman's house" -- the house in which I am residing. This is apparently because they are afraid of Chellapandi's husband who apparently will "fight" if he needs to. I'm not sure what he has done to instill fear in the vicinity, but I am feeling sort of good about this considering that there are frequently drunk men stumbling out of the bar across the street.
Chellapandi's husband decorating the drishti pusanikay.
I like it, but I'm not sure it looks demonic enough.
I am laughing because I almost got run over before taking this picture.
Tamilarasi, on our trip yesterday to the Kaliamman temple at Madapuram. These long garlands of lemons to adorn the deity are available for purchase.
Conspicuous leisure: A specialty of men the world over, the most popular place for men in India to engage in this "activity" is tea stalls. Meanwhile, women and girls as young as 4 were hauling water vessels to and fro. You're a lady and you want some tea? Better make it at home, because the tea stall is men's domain. 
What a "river" in Tamil Nadu looks like thanks to years of drought.
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